Zucchini Cocozelle di Tripoli

Basics

1. Capsicum (sweet/bell Capsicum) thrives in warm, sunny gardens.
2. Plant them in a spot with full sun (6+ hours) and rich, well-drained soil.
3. Prepare the bed by removing weeds and digging in plenty of compost or aged manure.
4. Use mulch around plants to retain moisture and suppress weeds.

Seed Trays vs Direct Sowing

Seedling Trays:

• Raise seeds in pots or trays filled with seedling mix, keeping them warm (16-35°C) and moist.
• This protected start speeds germination and gives plants a head start on weeds and weather.
• You’ll use fewer seeds and get sturdy seedlings for an earlier crop.
• The downside is extra effort and cost (pots, mix, heat source) and you must harden-off seedlings before planting out.

Direct Sowing:

• Plant seeds 3mm deep in the garden soil 50cm between plants, 60–100cm once it’s warm and frost-free.
• Direct sowing is simpler and cheaper (no trays or special mix), but germination is slower and more vulnerable to cold, pests or heavy rain.
• Capsicum seeds can take 1–3 weeks to sprout at 16–35°C.
• Ensure the soil stays evenly moist (not waterlogged) during this time.

In short: use trays if you want the best germination and an early start; sow direct if you prefer simplicity and have already warm conditions.

Planting and General Care

Timing & Spacing:

• Plant or transplant capsicum after all danger of frost has passed.
• In tropical/subtropical areas, Capsicums can even fruit year-round, but in cooler zones treat them as an annual summer crop.

Soil:

• Use well-drained, fertile soil rich in organic matter.
• Work in compost or aged manure before planting.
• Capsicums prefer a slightly acidic to neutral pH (~6.0–7.0).
• In pots, use at least ~40L per plant.

Watering:

• Water deeply and regularly, so the soil stays evenly moist.
• Check soil moisture by pushing a finger 4–5cm down; water when that layer is just dry.
• Water in the early morning or late afternoon to minimize stress.
• Avoid wetting the leaves, which can encourage fungal disease.
• Mulch around plants to keep roots cool and reduce evaporation.

Fertilising:

• If the soil was well-prepared, you may need little extra feed.
• Otherwise, apply a balanced (e.g. 10-10-10 NPK) slow-release fertilizer at planting.
• Once flowers and fruit start, give a liquid tomato or vegetable fertilizer every few weeks according to label directions.
• This supports heavy fruiting. Avoid excessive nitrogen late in the season, as it can reduce fruit set.

Staking & Pruning:

• Capsicum plants can get top-heavy with fruit. Stake or cage them when planting.
• A simple sturdy stake beside each plant works – gently tie the main stem (e.g. with soft string) as it grows.
• This prevents wind damage and keeps fruit off the ground.
• Remove any low or damaged leaves to improve air flow.
• Many gardeners also pinch out a few early flower buds when plants are young – this encourages stronger vegetative growth and heavier later yields.
• Overall, little pruning is needed beyond this.

Pest & Disease Management:

• Monitor plants for pests like aphids, caterpillars, slugs/snails, and chilli thrip.
• Hand-pick pests or use organic sprays if needed.
• Practice good hygiene: remove weeds and crop debris.
• Rotate capsicum/solanaceous crops to a different spot each year to reduce disease pressure.
• Common diseases include blossom-end rot (from inconsistent watering or low calcium) and fungal spots.
• Regular watering and mulch help prevent blossom-end rot.
• Crop rotation and not overcrowding plants also reduce problems.

Chilli Thrips: What They Are & How to Deal With Them

1. Chilli thrips (Scirtothrips dorsalis) are tiny, slender insects that can cause big problems in home veggie patches—especially for capsicum, chilli, eggplant, and tomato plants.
2. You might not see them easily (they’re less than 2mm long!), but the damage is easy to spot as leaves curl or look bronzed and scarred, buds drop off, and fruit can become deformed or scarred.
3. These pests feed by piercing plant tissue and sucking out the juices, which leads to silvery or brown patches on leaves and distorted growth.
4. They tend to hang out on the newest growth, flower buds, or the undersides of leaves—so grab a magnifying glass and check these spots first if your plants are looking stressed.

What You Can Do:

Prevention is key:

• Start clean – Avoid bringing in infested seedlings or cuttings.
• Attract beneficial bugs like lady beetles, lacewings, and predatory mites—they’ll help keep thrip numbers down.
• Plant flowers like alyssum, marigold, or dill nearby to draw in the good guys.

If they show up:

• Prune affected areas early to stop the spread.
• Hose them off gently with water to dislodge thrips from foliage.
• Apply insecticidal soap or horticultural oil, covering all leaf surfaces, especially underneath. Repeat weekly as needed.
• Rotate your crops each year to disrupt their lifecycle.

Tip: Thrips love hot, dry conditions—so keep your plants well-watered and mulched to reduce stress and deter infestations.

Companion Planting with Capsicum

Good companions:

• Herbs & Flowers: Basil, dill, parsley, coriander, chamomile and other aromatic herbs as they attract beneficial insects and may repel aphids or whiteflies. Garlic, onions, chives as their strong scent deters many pests. Marigolds, nasturtiums, borage, lavender as these flowers lure pollinators and trap pests (marigolds are famous for nematode control).
• Vegetables: Carrots, lettuce, spinach as they occupy shallow roots and don’t compete much with Capsicums. These can provide light ground cover under Capsicum plants. Tomatoes are sometimes planted alongside Capsicums (both like similar conditions) but be aware they share some pests/diseases so give them space and rotate beds regularly.
• Fruits: Strawberries and cucumbers have been noted as decent neighbours (shallow roots and shade from cucumber leaves can protect Capsicums).

Bad Companions

• Other heavy feeders or close relatives.
• Do not grow next to eggplants, potatoes or tomatoes in succession, as they share pests/diseases.
• Stay away from beans/peas and plants like fennel or dill, which can inhibit Capsicum growth.
• Squash and pumpkins (deep-rooted cucurbits) can out-compete Capsicums for nutrients.
• In short, pair Capsicums with light-feeders and pest-deterring plants, and keep them apart from other nightshades and big gourds.

Seed Saving

Saving your own Capsicum seeds is easy if you follow a few simple steps:

Select plants:

• Pick the healthiest plants with strong, typical fruit.
• If growing multiple types, isolate them (e.g. bag flowers or keep 20m+ apart) to prevent cross-pollination.

Harvest ripe fruits:

• Wait until Capsicums are fully ripe on the plant which is usually when they’ve changed to their final colour and just start to soften or wrinkle.
• Allowing fruits to over ripen a little ensures the seeds are mature.

Extract seeds:

• Cut the Capsicum in half and scoop or twist out the central core.
• Scrape out the seeds and remove as much of the inner flesh and pith as possible.
• Rinse the seeds in clean water to wash off any remaining pulp which helps them dry cleanly.

Dry seeds:

• Spread the seeds in a single layer on paper towels or a clean plate in a dry, shaded place.
• Let them dry completely over several days.
• They’re ready when you can crunch a seed in your fingers and it snaps rather than bends.
• Moisture is the enemy of seed storage, so make sure they feel fully dry.

Store seeds:

• Transfer the dried seeds to a paper envelope or small jar with a tight lid.
• Label with variety and date.
• Store in a cool, dark, dry spot (a refrigerator works well).
• Properly stored Capsicum seeds remain viable for about 3–4 years, so you’ll have plants for many seasons.

Growing Conditions

Climate:

• Zucchini thrives in warm temperatures, typically between 20-30°C.

Soil:

• Type: Light, sandy loam or rich, well-draining soil is best.
• pH: Aim for a soil pH of 6.0 to 7.0.

Preparation: Prior to planting, enrich the soil with generous amounts of organic matter such as compost, aged manure, or green manure.

Location:

• Select a site that receives full sun, with at least 6-8 hours of sunlight daily.
• Ensure the area has good air circulation to prevent diseases.

Planting Zucchini

Planting Time:

• Sow seeds from late spring to early summer when the soil temperature is between 21°C and 35°C

Seedling Preparation:

• If starting indoors, use biodegradable pots to reduce root disturbance during transplantation.
• Sow seeds 5 mm deep in well-draining potting mix.

Direct Sowing:

• In warm regions, you can sow seeds directly outdoors after the last frost.
• Spacing is crucial, so plant seeds 90 cm apart in rows or plant in mounds with 4-5 seeds per mound.

Care and Maintenance

Watering:

• Water deeply once or twice a week, ensuring your zucchini plants receive 2.5-5 cm of water per week, particularly during flowering and fruit-setting periods.
• Water the base of the plant to keep the leaves dry to reduce fungal diseases.

Fertilisation:

• Use a balanced fertilizer or organic options like compost or fish emulsion every 3-4 weeks.
• Consider side-dressing with well-rotted manure or compost during mid-season.

Mulching:

• Apply a layer of organic mulch around plants to retain moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature.

Pruning:

• Regularly remove any dead or yellowing leaves to maintain plant health. Prune to improve air circulation if plants are closely spaced.

Pest Management

Common Pests:

• Aphids: Small insects that suck sap. Control them using insecticidal soap or introducing ladybugs.
• Squash Bugs: Large, brown bugs. Hand-pick or use row covers to protect seedlings.
• Cucumber Beetles: Can spread diseases. Use traps or insect barriers.

Diseases:

• Powdery Mildew: Fungal disease characterized by white powdery spots. Control with proper spacing, watering practices, and fungicidal sprays if necessary.
• Vine Borers: Larvae can burrow into the stem. Look for signs of wilting and remove infected plants.

Preventative Measures:

• Crop rotation, ensuring you do not plant zucchinis or other cucurbits in the same spot year after year.
• Use companion plants to deter pests naturally.

Harvesting

Timing:

• Zucchini is typically ready for harvest 6-8 weeks after planting. It can be harvested when fruits are about 15-20 cm long for the best taste and texture.

Method:

• Use a sharp knife or pruning shears to cut the fruit from the plant, leaving a short stem attached.
• Harvest regularly (every few days) to encourage the production of more fruits.

Companion Planting

Beneficial Companions:

• Corn: Provides natural support for zucchini to climb, saving space and promoting growth. The tall corn plants also create a microclimate that can help with shading.
• Nasturtiums: These flowers attract aphids away from zucchini and can deter squash bugs. They also contribute nutrients to the soil.
• Marigolds: Known for their pest-repelling properties, marigolds can help ward off nematodes and other harmful insects.
• Radishes: They grow quickly and can help break up the soil, allowing better drainage and root growth for zucchini. They can also mask the scent of zucchini, making it harder for pests to locate.
• Basil: This herb improves the flavour of zucchini and deters certain pests, including flies and beetles.

Plants to Avoid:

• Potatoes: They can compete for nutrients and space, which may hinder the growth of zucchini.
• Sage: This herb can suppress zucchini growth if planted nearby, as they may compete for similar nutrients.
• Cabbage Family: Members of this family can attract pests that also target zucchini, making them poor companions.

Additional Tips:

• Spacing: Ensure proper spacing between zucchini and companion plants to minimize competition for light and nutrients.
• Crop Rotation: Rotate zucchini and its companions to different garden areas each season to prevent soil depletion and reduce pest buildup.
• Diversity: Including a variety of companion plants is beneficial. This can lead to a more resilient garden, as diverse plantings can deter a wider range of pests.