Perilla Shiso Green

✨ Starting from Seed: Trays vs Direct Sowing

Perilla is best sown in seed trays, especially if you want to keep good control over spacing and germination. The seeds are small and can be a little slow to get going, which makes direct sowing a bit hit-and-miss—especially in cooler soils or where slugs are lurking.

Sow trays indoors or in a protected spot in late spring to early summer, once all danger of frost has passed. In tropical and subtropical regions, you can start earlier (around September), but in temperate and cool climates, wait until the soil really warms up.

Each seed should be gently pressed into the surface of moist seed-raising mix (they need light to germinate, so don’t bury them too deeply—just a fine sprinkle of mix over the top is enough). Use a fine mist spray to keep the surface damp but not waterlogged.

If you’re in a warm climate and prefer to sow direct, choose a sunny, sheltered spot and wait until nights are reliably warm. Sow very shallowly and keep the area consistently moist. Thin seedlings to 30 cm apart once established.

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🌱 Seed Pre-Treatment: Do You Need It?

Yes, Perilla seeds benefit from cold stratification—especially older seed or in cooler climates. This simply mimics winter conditions and breaks dormancy.

Here’s how:

• Place seeds in a damp paper towel, fold it up, and seal it in a zip-lock bag.
• Refrigerate for 3–7 days before sowing.
  This step improves germination significantly and is worth doing if you’re sowing in trays for transplant.

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🌞 Soil & Position

Perilla likes a sunny to partly shaded position. In very hot areas, a bit of afternoon shade can help the plant stay lush and prevent wilting.

Choose a spot with:

• Free-draining soil rich in organic matter.
• pH between 5.5–6.5 (slightly acidic is ideal).
• Add compost and a little aged manure to prep the bed, and mix through some blood and bone for a balanced feed.

Raised beds or large pots also work well for Perilla—just be sure the soil stays consistently moist but not soggy.

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🪴 Care & Maintenance

Perilla is fairly low maintenance once it’s settled in. Here’s what helps it thrive:

• Water regularly—especially in hot weather. It doesn’t like to dry out.
• Mulch around the base to keep roots cool and reduce evaporation.
• Pinch out the tips once plants are about 20cm tall to encourage bushy growth.
• You can harvest leaves continually—just don’t strip the plant completely.
• Once flowering starts, leaf production slows—so regular harvesting can delay flowering.

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🌼 Companion Planting Guide

Perilla is a bit of a team player in the patch. It repels some pests and attracts pollinators when it flowers.

Good companions:

• Tomatoes – Perilla repels aphids and beetles.
• Capsicum & Chillies – Similar growing needs, and benefit from shared pest deterrence.
• Basil & Mint – These like similar conditions, but give them their own space to prevent competition.
• Lettuce – Perilla’s canopy can offer some shade in hot weather.

Avoid:

• Fennel – Known to inhibit growth of many plants nearby.

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✂️ Harvesting

You can begin harvesting leaves when the plant is about 20–30cm tall. Pick young, tender leaves for the best flavour—perfect for wrapping rice, garnishing noodles, or brewing into tea.

If you’d like to save seeds later, allow a few plants to flower and set seed—just know that leaf quality drops once flowering begins.

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🐛 Common Issues & Fixes

Here’s a quick table of common Perilla problems and how to handle them:

Issue	Symptoms	Fix
Poor germination	Patchy or no seedling emergence	Try cold stratification; ensure seeds have light to germinate
Slugs/snails	Nibbled seedlings or leaves	Use crushed eggshells, coffee grounds, or pet-safe slug pellets
Wilting in heat	Leaves droop midday	Mulch well, provide afternoon shade, and increase watering
Leaf discolouration	Yellowing or browning	Check for overwatering or poor drainage; feed with seaweed tonic
Aphids	Clusters on stems or leaf undersides	Blast with water, introduce ladybugs, or spray with neem oil

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🌾 Seed Saving Guide

Perilla produces seeds in small flower spikes late in the season. Here’s how to save your own:

1. Let the plant flower and dry naturally on the stalk.
2. Wait until seed heads are dry and brown—they’ll rattle when ready.
3. Cut whole seed heads and place them upside-down in a paper bag.
4. Leave in a dry, warm spot for a few days to finish drying.
5. Shake the bag to release seeds, then sieve and winnow out debris.
6. Store in an airtight container in a cool, dark place. Label with variety and date.

Note: Perilla cross-pollinates easily, so if you’ve got multiple varieties, grow only one for seed-saving purposes or isolate by distance.

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🌿 Final Thoughts

Perilla might not be the first herb people think to grow, but once you’ve had it fresh from the garden, you’ll wonder how you ever cooked without it! It’s a lovely bridge between the ornamental and edible—with glossy, serrated leaves, a rich fragrance, and culinary versatility.

As always, start small, experiment with what works in your patch, and enjoy the process. Growing Perilla is just another lovely way to add diversity, flavour, and beauty to your space 🌼

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Delivery Guarantee

We take great care to make sure your seeds arrive safely. If your order is lost or damaged in transit, we’ll happily send a replacement. Unfortunately, we can’t replace or refund orders that arrive later than the estimated delivery date, as delays can sometimes occur that are outside our control.

Please note that all dispatch and delivery times listed are estimates only. While we do our best to post promptly, delivery timeframes can vary due to postal service delays, weather events, or other unforeseen circumstances. We’re unable to take responsibility for any loss, damage, or cost that results from a late delivery.

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