Echinacea

Basics

1. Capsicum (sweet/bell Capsicum) thrives in warm, sunny gardens.
2. Plant them in a spot with full sun (6+ hours) and rich, well-drained soil.
3. Prepare the bed by removing weeds and digging in plenty of compost or aged manure.
4. Use mulch around plants to retain moisture and suppress weeds.

Seed Trays vs Direct Sowing

Seedling Trays:

• Raise seeds in pots or trays filled with seedling mix, keeping them warm (16-35°C) and moist.
• This protected start speeds germination and gives plants a head start on weeds and weather.
• You’ll use fewer seeds and get sturdy seedlings for an earlier crop.
• The downside is extra effort and cost (pots, mix, heat source) and you must harden-off seedlings before planting out.

Direct Sowing:

• Plant seeds 3mm deep in the garden soil 50cm between plants, 60–100cm once it’s warm and frost-free.
• Direct sowing is simpler and cheaper (no trays or special mix), but germination is slower and more vulnerable to cold, pests or heavy rain.
• Capsicum seeds can take 1–3 weeks to sprout at 16–35°C.
• Ensure the soil stays evenly moist (not waterlogged) during this time.

In short: use trays if you want the best germination and an early start; sow direct if you prefer simplicity and have already warm conditions.

Planting and General Care

Timing & Spacing:

• Plant or transplant capsicum after all danger of frost has passed.
• In tropical/subtropical areas, Capsicums can even fruit year-round, but in cooler zones treat them as an annual summer crop.

Soil:

• Use well-drained, fertile soil rich in organic matter.
• Work in compost or aged manure before planting.
• Capsicums prefer a slightly acidic to neutral pH (~6.0–7.0).
• In pots, use at least ~40L per plant.

Watering:

• Water deeply and regularly, so the soil stays evenly moist.
• Check soil moisture by pushing a finger 4–5cm down; water when that layer is just dry.
• Water in the early morning or late afternoon to minimize stress.
• Avoid wetting the leaves, which can encourage fungal disease.
• Mulch around plants to keep roots cool and reduce evaporation.

Fertilising:

• If the soil was well-prepared, you may need little extra feed.
• Otherwise, apply a balanced (e.g. 10-10-10 NPK) slow-release fertilizer at planting.
• Once flowers and fruit start, give a liquid tomato or vegetable fertilizer every few weeks according to label directions.
• This supports heavy fruiting. Avoid excessive nitrogen late in the season, as it can reduce fruit set.

Staking & Pruning:

• Capsicum plants can get top-heavy with fruit. Stake or cage them when planting.
• A simple sturdy stake beside each plant works – gently tie the main stem (e.g. with soft string) as it grows.
• This prevents wind damage and keeps fruit off the ground.
• Remove any low or damaged leaves to improve air flow.
• Many gardeners also pinch out a few early flower buds when plants are young – this encourages stronger vegetative growth and heavier later yields.
• Overall, little pruning is needed beyond this.

Pest & Disease Management:

• Monitor plants for pests like aphids, caterpillars, slugs/snails, and chilli thrip.
• Hand-pick pests or use organic sprays if needed.
• Practice good hygiene: remove weeds and crop debris.
• Rotate capsicum/solanaceous crops to a different spot each year to reduce disease pressure.
• Common diseases include blossom-end rot (from inconsistent watering or low calcium) and fungal spots.
• Regular watering and mulch help prevent blossom-end rot.
• Crop rotation and not overcrowding plants also reduce problems.

Chilli Thrips: What They Are & How to Deal With Them

1. Chilli thrips (Scirtothrips dorsalis) are tiny, slender insects that can cause big problems in home veggie patches—especially for capsicum, chilli, eggplant, and tomato plants.
2. You might not see them easily (they’re less than 2mm long!), but the damage is easy to spot as leaves curl or look bronzed and scarred, buds drop off, and fruit can become deformed or scarred.
3. These pests feed by piercing plant tissue and sucking out the juices, which leads to silvery or brown patches on leaves and distorted growth.
4. They tend to hang out on the newest growth, flower buds, or the undersides of leaves—so grab a magnifying glass and check these spots first if your plants are looking stressed.

What You Can Do:

Prevention is key:

• Start clean – Avoid bringing in infested seedlings or cuttings.
• Attract beneficial bugs like lady beetles, lacewings, and predatory mites—they’ll help keep thrip numbers down.
• Plant flowers like alyssum, marigold, or dill nearby to draw in the good guys.

If they show up:

• Prune affected areas early to stop the spread.
• Hose them off gently with water to dislodge thrips from foliage.
• Apply insecticidal soap or horticultural oil, covering all leaf surfaces, especially underneath. Repeat weekly as needed.
• Rotate your crops each year to disrupt their lifecycle.

Tip: Thrips love hot, dry conditions—so keep your plants well-watered and mulched to reduce stress and deter infestations.

Companion Planting with Capsicum

Good companions:

• Herbs & Flowers: Basil, dill, parsley, coriander, chamomile and other aromatic herbs as they attract beneficial insects and may repel aphids or whiteflies. Garlic, onions, chives as their strong scent deters many pests. Marigolds, nasturtiums, borage, lavender as these flowers lure pollinators and trap pests (marigolds are famous for nematode control).
• Vegetables: Carrots, lettuce, spinach as they occupy shallow roots and don’t compete much with Capsicums. These can provide light ground cover under Capsicum plants. Tomatoes are sometimes planted alongside Capsicums (both like similar conditions) but be aware they share some pests/diseases so give them space and rotate beds regularly.
• Fruits: Strawberries and cucumbers have been noted as decent neighbours (shallow roots and shade from cucumber leaves can protect Capsicums).

Bad Companions

• Other heavy feeders or close relatives.
• Do not grow next to eggplants, potatoes or tomatoes in succession, as they share pests/diseases.
• Stay away from beans/peas and plants like fennel or dill, which can inhibit Capsicum growth.
• Squash and pumpkins (deep-rooted cucurbits) can out-compete Capsicums for nutrients.
• In short, pair Capsicums with light-feeders and pest-deterring plants, and keep them apart from other nightshades and big gourds.

Seed Saving

Saving your own Capsicum seeds is easy if you follow a few simple steps:

Select plants:

• Pick the healthiest plants with strong, typical fruit.
• If growing multiple types, isolate them (e.g. bag flowers or keep 20m+ apart) to prevent cross-pollination.

Harvest ripe fruits:

• Wait until Capsicums are fully ripe on the plant which is usually when they’ve changed to their final colour and just start to soften or wrinkle.
• Allowing fruits to over ripen a little ensures the seeds are mature.

Extract seeds:

• Cut the Capsicum in half and scoop or twist out the central core.
• Scrape out the seeds and remove as much of the inner flesh and pith as possible.
• Rinse the seeds in clean water to wash off any remaining pulp which helps them dry cleanly.

Dry seeds:

• Spread the seeds in a single layer on paper towels or a clean plate in a dry, shaded place.
• Let them dry completely over several days.
• They’re ready when you can crunch a seed in your fingers and it snaps rather than bends.
• Moisture is the enemy of seed storage, so make sure they feel fully dry.

Store seeds:

• Transfer the dried seeds to a paper envelope or small jar with a tight lid.
• Label with variety and date.
• Store in a cool, dark, dry spot (a refrigerator works well).
• Properly stored Capsicum seeds remain viable for about 3–4 years, so you’ll have plants for many seasons.

Climate and Soil Requirements

Climate:

• Echinacea thrives in temperate to subtropical climates, making it suitable for most regions in Australia.
• However, it prefers cooler summers and may struggle in extremely hot, humid areas.

Temperature:

• Echinacea prefers temperatures between 15°C and 25°C.

 Sunlight:

• Full sun (6–8 hours daily) is ideal, but it can tolerate partial shade.

 Frost

• Tolerance: Echinacea is frost tolerant and can survive light frosts.

 Soil

 Type:

• Well-draining soil is essential.
• Echinacea does not tolerate waterlogged conditions.

 pH:

• Slightly acidic to neutral soil (pH 6.0–7.0) is ideal.

 Fertility:

• Echinacea grows well in moderately fertile soil.
• Avoid overly rich soil, as it can lead to leggy growth and fewer flowers.

Cold Stratification

Cold stratification is a process that mimics the natural winter conditions seeds would experience in their native habitat. This process is essential for breaking the dormancy of Echinacea seeds and encouraging germination.

Steps for Cold Stratification

• Moisten the Medium: Use a damp paper towel, sand, or vermiculite as the stratification medium. Ensure it is moist but not waterlogged.
• Place Seeds in the Medium: Spread the Echinacea seeds evenly on the damp medium.
• Seal in a Bag or Container: Place the medium with seeds in a plastic bag or airtight container.
• Refrigerate: Store the container in the refrigerator at a temperature of 1–5°C for 4–6 weeks. Check periodically to ensure the medium remains moist.
• Sow After Stratification: After the stratification period, sow the seeds as described in the planting section.

 Planting Echinacea

• Prepare the soil by loosening it to a depth of 30 cm and mixing in compost or well-rotted manure.
• Sow seeds 3 mm deep and space them 30 cm apart.
• Water gently and keep the soil moist until germination (10–20 days).
• For transplants, dig a hole slightly larger than the root ball, place the plant, and backfill with soil. Water thoroughly.

Care and Maintenance

 Watering:

• Echinacea is drought tolerant once established but requires regular watering during the first growing season.
• Water deeply once a week, allowing the soil to dry out between waterings.
• Avoid overwatering, as this can cause root rot.

 Fertilising:

• Echinacea does not require heavy fertilisation.
• Apply a balanced, slow-release fertilizer in early spring if needed.
• Overfertilizing can lead to excessive foliage growth at the expense of flowers.

 Pruning:

• Deadhead spent flowers to encourage continuous blooming.
• Cut back the plants to ground level in late autumn or early winter to promote healthy growth in the following season.

 Pests and Diseases

• Echinacea is relatively pest resistant but can occasionally be affected by aphids, slugs, or powdery mildew.
• Use organic pest control methods, such as neem oil or insecticidal soap, if necessary.

Harvesting Echinacea

 Flowers:

• Harvest flowers when they are fully open for use in floral arrangements or drying.

 Roots:

• For medicinal use, harvest roots in the plant’s third or fourth year.
• Dig up the roots in autumn, wash them thoroughly, and dry them for storage.

Companion Planting with Echinacea

 Best Companion Plants

Lavender:

• Both plants thrive in full sun and well-draining soil.
• Lavender’s strong scent can deter pests.

Salvia:

• Salvias and Echinacea share similar growing conditions and bloom at the same time, creating a vibrant display.

Rudbeckia:

• Rudbeckia’s yellow flowers complement Echinacea’s purple hues, and both attract pollinators.

Ornamental Grasses:

• Grasses provide a contrasting texture and help support tall Echinacea stems.

Yarrow:

• Yarrow attracts beneficial insects and improves soil health.

Herbs (e.g., Thyme, Oregano):

• Herbs can deter pests and thrive in similar conditions.

Plants to Avoid

• Avoid planting Echinacea near aggressive spreaders like mint, which can outcompete it for resources.