Squash Benning’s Green Tint

🌱 Sowing: Trays vs. Direct

Button squash seeds are best sown directly in the garden, but there are times when starting in trays makes sense—especially in cooler zones or when you want to get a head start.

Direct Sowing:

• Ideal once soil temps are above 18°C—usually from mid-spring to midsummer across most of Australia.
• Button squash doesn’t like root disturbance, so sowing directly where they’ll grow saves stress on the plant.
• Space seeds 70cm apart in rows or mounds (little hills help with drainage).
• Sow 2–3 seeds per spot, then thin to the strongest seedling.

In Trays:

• Use this method if you have short growing seasons (like in cooler southern regions) or persistent pests.
• Use deep biodegradable pots to avoid root disturbance at transplant time.
• Sow 1 seed per cell or pot, about 2–3cm deep.
• Harden off seedlings before transplanting—acclimate them slowly to outdoor conditions for 5–7 days.

🔬 Seed Pre-treatment

No seed pre-treatment is needed—button squash germinates readily on its own, often within 5–10 days if conditions are warm and moist.

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🌞 Soil and Position

Sunlight: Full sun is essential—at least 6 hours daily, but more is better. Button squash love the heat and will thrive in the warmer months.

Soil:

• Rich, well-draining soil with plenty of organic matter.
• Add compost, aged manure or worm castings before planting.
• pH should be between 6.0–7.0 (neutral to slightly acidic).
• Mulch well to conserve moisture and suppress weeds.

A spot with good airflow helps reduce powdery mildew risk, especially in humid or rainy climates.

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🛠️ Care and Maintenance

Watering:

• Keep soil evenly moist, especially during flowering and fruiting.
• Water at the base, not overhead, to prevent fungal issues.

Feeding:

• Side-dress with compost or apply a liquid seaweed/organic fertiliser every 2–3 weeks once flowering starts.
• Avoid high-nitrogen fertilisers—they’ll boost leaves at the expense of fruit.

Support:

• Although button squash are bushy and compact, a low trellis or tomato cage can help keep fruits off the soil and reduce rot.

Pollination:

• Bees are vital. If fruits form but stay small or yellow, try hand pollinating with a soft paintbrush or cotton bud.

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🌼 Companion Planting

Here are a few buddies that thrive alongside button squash:

Companion Plants	Benefits
Nasturtiums	Attract pollinators & repel aphids
Marigolds	Deter nematodes and whiteflies
Beans	Fix nitrogen in the soil
Corn	Offers some shelter and structure
Radish	Acts as a trap crop for flea beetles
Herbs (e.g. dill)	Attract beneficial insects

Avoid planting near: potatoes (compete for nutrients), and other cucurbits (space them out to avoid pest spread).

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✂️ Harvesting

Button squash are best picked young—around 5–8cm wide, when their skin is tender and the flavour is at its peak.

• Use secateurs or a sharp knife to cut fruit with a small stem.
• Check daily—plants can produce heavily and quickly!
• Regular harvesting encourages more fruit to form.

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🐛 Common Issues and Fixes

Problem	Likely Cause	Solution
Yellowing leaves	Overwatering or nutrient imbalance	Adjust watering, add compost or seaweed tonic
Powdery mildew	Humidity or poor airflow	Remove affected leaves, apply milk spray
No fruit forming	Poor pollination	Encourage bees, hand-pollinate if needed
Blossom end rot	Calcium deficiency or inconsistent water	Keep watering regular, add dolomite if needed
Aphids/whitefly	Sap-sucking pests	Use neem oil or insecticidal soap
Fruit rotting on ground	Contact with wet soil	Mulch or lift fruit onto bricks/straw

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🌼 Seed Saving Guide

If you’re keen to save seed, here’s how to do it properly with button squash:

1. Isolation

• Squash plants are insect-pollinated and will cross with other Cucurbita pepo types (like zucchini, spaghetti squash, and some pumpkins).
• To keep seeds pure, either hand-pollinate and bag flowers, or grow only one variety of C. pepo at a time with 1km isolation distance.

2. Choose the Right Fruit

• Let a few fruits mature fully on the vine until the skin is hard like a pumpkin and the colour fades slightly.
• This can take 8+ weeks after flowering.

3. Harvest and Cure

• Pick mature fruits and let them cure indoors for 2–3 weeks to allow seeds to fully mature.

4. Extract Seeds

• Cut open fruit, scoop out seeds, and rinse in a sieve to remove flesh.
• Fermenting the seeds in water for 2–3 days can help remove the gel coating—just stir daily and strain when it starts to smell a little sour.

5. Drying and Storage

• Dry thoroughly on paper or mesh screens out of direct sunlight.
• Store seeds in a cool, dry place in a paper envelope or airtight container.
• Properly stored seeds last 4–6 years.

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🌿 Final Thoughts

Button squash are one of those joyful, generous plants that reward even modest care with bucketloads of crisp, tasty fruit. They’re perfect for small spaces, raised beds, or even large containers if well fed and watered. Keep them happy with full sun, steady moisture, and regular picking—and they’ll keep dishing out the goods right through summer and into autumn.

And if you’re growing for the first time, that’s okay—it’s all part of the learning! Before long, you’ll be spotting those sunny little discs under the leaves and wondering why you didn’t plant more.

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Delivery Guarantee

We take great care to make sure your seeds arrive safely. If your order is lost or damaged in transit, we’ll happily send a replacement. Unfortunately, we can’t replace or refund orders that arrive later than the estimated delivery date, as delays can sometimes occur that are outside our control.

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